Classic Neapolitan shell-shaped pastries with ultra-crisp, lard-laminated layers and a fragrant ricotta–semolina filling studded with candied citrus.
Ingredients
Dough
400 g “00” flour (or 11–12% protein all-purpose flour)
5 g fine sea salt
10 g honey
180 ml water (room temperature)
20 g flour (for dusting)
Lamination Fat
250 g lard (softened, spreadable)
30 g lard (melted, for brushing)
Filling
500 g ricotta (well-drained, 12 hours)
450 ml whole milk
120 g fine semolina
160 g granulated sugar
70 g beaten egg
80 g candied orange or citron (finely chopped)
5 g orange zest (finely grated)
2 g ground cinnamon
5 ml vanilla extract
5 ml orange blossom water
2 g fine sea salt
Finishing
30 g powdered sugar
Steps
Sift the flour into a large bowl.
Stir in the salt.
Dissolve the honey in the water.
Pour the water into the flour.
Mix to a shaggy dough.
Knead until smooth for 8 minutes.
Form the dough into a rough rectangle.
Wrap the dough in plastic.
Rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces.
Flatten one piece into a thick strip.
Cover the remaining pieces with plastic.
Set a pasta machine to its widest setting.
Dust the strip lightly with flour.
Roll the strip through the machine.
Fold the strip in thirds lengthwise.
Roll the strip on the widest setting again.
Set the machine one notch thinner.
Roll the strip through the machine.
Continue thinning until the strip is about 1 mm thick.
Spread a very thin layer of softened lard over the strip.
Stretch the strip gently sideways to widen it slightly.
Roll the strip tightly into a log from the short end.
Place the log on a tray.
Cover the log loosely with plastic.
Roll the second dough piece to about 1 mm thick.
Spread softened lard over the strip.
Stretch the strip gently sideways.
Wrap the strip around the log to extend it.
Roll the third dough piece to about 1 mm thick.
Spread softened lard over the strip.
Stretch the strip gently sideways.
Wrap the strip around the log.
Roll the fourth dough piece to about 1 mm thick.
Spread softened lard over the strip.
Stretch the strip gently sideways.
Wrap the strip around the log.
Brush the log with melted lard.
Wrap the log tightly in plastic.
Refrigerate the log for 2 hours.
Freeze the log for 30 minutes.
Heat the milk to a bare simmer in a saucepan.
Lower the heat to low.
Whisk the milk.
Sprinkle the semolina into the milk.
Stir constantly for 3 minutes.
Scrape the semolina mixture into a bowl.
Cool the semolina mixture to room temperature.
Beat the ricotta with the sugar in a large bowl.
Add the beaten egg to the ricotta mixture.
Mix until smooth.
Add the cooled semolina mixture.
Mix until homogeneous.
Stir in the candied citrus, orange zest, cinnamon, vanilla, orange blossom water, and salt.
Cover the filling with plastic.
Refrigerate the filling for 1 hour.
Line two baking sheets with parchment.
Set an oven rack to the middle position.
Preheat the oven to 210°C.
Unwrap the dough log.
Trim the ends of the log.
Measure 18–20 mm thick slices along the log.
Cut the log into 16 slices.
Place one slice flat on the work surface.
Press the center of the slice with your thumbs.
Hold the slice by its edges.
Push from the center to thin the layers into a cone.
Spoon 35–40 g filling into the cone.
Pinch the wide edge to close the seam.
Tug the tip gently to elongate the shell.
Place the shaped pastry seam-side down on a tray.
Repeat shaping with the remaining slices.
Brush the pastries lightly with melted lard.
Chill the trays for 15 minutes.
Bake one tray at a time for 25–30 minutes.
Rotate the tray halfway through baking.
Remove the pastries when deeply golden and crisp.
Cool the pastries on the tray for 5 minutes.
Transfer the pastries to a rack.
Dust the pastries with powdered sugar.
Notes
Ricotta prep: Drain ricotta in a fine sieve over a bowl in the refrigerator for 12–24 hours to prevent soggy shells.
Dough and lamination: Aim for sheets as thin as 0.5–1 mm. Stretch gently to avoid tearing. Keep lard very soft for spreading but not melted to maintain distinct layers.
Texture control: If the filling seems loose, chill longer until scoopable. If it seems firm, beat briefly to loosen before filling.
Make-ahead: Wrap the larded log and refrigerate up to 2 days or freeze up to 1 month. Slice and shape from well-chilled or slightly frozen for best definition. Bake from frozen at 200°C for 30–35 minutes.
Substitutions: Replace lard with 250 g unsalted European butter (84% fat) for a milder flavor and slightly less shattering layers; add 2 g salt to compensate.
Variation: For Sfogliatella Frolla, encase the same filling in 3–4 mm sweet shortcrust rounds and bake at 180°C until golden.
Serving and storage: Serve warm and crisp. Re-crisp leftovers at 180°C for 6–8 minutes. Avoid airtight storage, which softens layers.
Cross-references: For a related ricotta–semolina tradition, see Pastiera Napoletana. For a different ricotta pastry, see Cannoli.
Cooksmith